Q. I've heard that damaging the hair can help my hair get more volume, why is this?

A. This is actually true, especially for finer hair. Damage swells the hair shaft and roughs up the outside (cuticle) of the hair, which has scales, somewhat like those on a fish. When the cuticle of the hair is very smooth, the hair has shine because the light bounces off of its smooth surface, but it can have a tendency to lay flat. When the cuticle is roughed up a little, the scales are more open. The scales of different hairs catch on each other somewhat like blackberry bushes that get entangled, allowing the hairs to pile up, creating volume.

On coarse hair, which often has enough volume on its own, damage can also be of help. Coarse, straight hair is often very stiff and inflexible and hence, doesn't want to move in different directions. It just wants to go exactly where it wants to go and it is difficult to make it do anything else without a lot of forcing. Damage softens the hair, allowing it to flex more, giving its owner more options.

So damage can be a good thing. But as in all things, moderation and balance are crucial. Too much damage on any type of hair will result in a lack of shine, elasticity and bounce, the hair will look and feel dry and lifeless. Too little damage and the hair may be difficult to style. Each different type of hair can tolerate different degrees of damage. Fine hair is naturally weaker than coarser hair and is more easily over-damaged.

How the hair is carefully damaged is important and coloring or highlighting it is the most effective, most controllable way. Most other ways usually cause too much damage and are difficult to control. The main reason good quality color works well is that even though there is some damage occurring, the hair is also being filled in with nice proteins, oils and conditioners. That's why your hair looks so nice after a fresh color. You get the benefit of the swollen hair shaft and roughed up cuticle, adding volume, but the cuticle will be somewhat smoothed out by being filled in, insuring shine. But I must stress that skill of application and quality of color is imperative. Most of the hair colors I see when I'm out in the world are dull and dead looking, even if there is volume.

Bleach (lightener) can really give fine hair more volume but very often hairstylists overdo it. The highlighted hair looks dull and all elasticity is gone. The hair may have more volume then it would in its virgin state, but it isn't worth it, balance has been lost. Again, moderation is key and skill is required.

Overall, I absolutely, 100% prefer healthy hair over dried out hair and my work is very much about keeping hair as healthy as possible. But, as in all things, wisdom and awareness allow balanced choices to be made.